Cholatse High camp (5800m)

TRIP FACTS

CLIMBING HISTORY

  • First Ascent: Cholatse was first successfully climbed on April 22, 1982, by Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, and Bill O’Connor as part of an American expedition.
  • North Face Route: The first ascent followed the North Face route, a challenging and technical climb with steep rock and ice sections.
  • Subsequent Climbs: In the years following the first ascent, climbers from various expeditions have successfully summited Cholatse via different routes, contributing to the mountain’s climbing history.
  • Variety of Routes: Cholatse offers a variety of climbing routes, each presenting its own set of challenges. The North Face, North Ridge, and Southwest Ridge are among the notable routes chosen by climbers.
  • Technical Challenges: Climbers on Cholatse face technical difficulties, including mixed rock and ice climbing, challenging weather conditions, and steep terrain.
  • Notable Ascents: Over the years, Cholatse has been climbed by experienced mountaineers and adventure enthusiasts seeking a challenging and less frequented ascent in the Everest region.
  • Role in Climbing Culture: Cholatse holds a special place in the climbing community due to its technical difficulty and aesthetic appeal, attracting those looking for a more demanding climb in comparison to some of the neighboring peaks.
  • Accidents and Challenges: Like many high-altitude peaks, Cholatse has witnessed accidents and challenges, highlighting the inherent risks associated with mountaineering.

OUR ISLAND SPECIAL

  • Customizable packages from normal to deluxe
  • Highly qualified and experienced climbing guides and supporters’ team
  • Full-proof documentation so you don’t have to worry a bit
  • Every attempt to make your summit dream come true
  • Comfortable bus from and to Kathmandu from Besi Sahar; four-wheel drive from Besi Sahar to Koto to experience off-road adventurous road towards and from Manang
  • One Sherpa for one client
  • Sustainable and environment-friendly operation module
  • Helicopter as transportation after the expedition from the base camp to Kathmandu.
  • Expedition Himalaya is built on the foundation of social principles; we give back to the Himalayan communities as we make it.

Cholatse poses technical challenges, prompting the expedition to strategically install fixed ropes where needed to ensure the safety of all climbers and staff. A dedicated period of 14 days has been allocated at base camp and higher elevations, providing ample time for both rope fixing and contingency planning in case adverse weather conditions arise.

Our approach prioritizes a cautious acclimatization schedule, with an initial focus on base camp residency to allow climbers to acclimate before venturing onto the mountain. This method ensures a gradual adaptation to the high-altitude environment.

The planned route involves navigating a compact icefall leading to a potential small rock section, dependent on snow coverage. Fixed ropes will be in place for added security during this segment. Subsequently, the ascent continues along a lengthy snow and ice arete, exclusively following the Southwest Ridge to the summit. Our strategic plan involves the establishment of a single camp on the mountain, situated at 5,700 meters—Camp One. This streamlined approach maximizes efficiency and minimizes the impact on the challenging terrain of Cholatse.

The Base Camp (4700 m)

Our base camp rivals, if not surpasses, the luxury offered by some of the more expensive operators in the Khumbu region. The culinary excellence of our highly experienced cooks is renowned, with the food being acknowledged as among the finest in the Himalayas. Each climber enjoys the comfort of a personal Mountain Hardwear 3-person tent at base camp, complete with insulation, a foam floor covering, and an additional thick foam mattress for enhanced comfort. Our dining arrangements boast a carpeted, heated, and solar-lit tent, ensuring a cozy and well-lit space for shared meals. At Altitude Junkies, we adhere to a strict policy of removing all human waste from base camp. Our dedicated porters transport the toilet drums to a lower village, where proper disposal procedures are followed, reflecting our commitment to environmental responsibility.

Arial view of Himlung base camp

HIGH CAMP (5700 m)

Situated at approximately 5700 meters above sea level, Cholatse's high camp is reached after a challenging 5-6 hours of uphill climbing, starting from the crampon point at around 5200 meters. At the crampon point, climbers prepare themselves with all the necessary climbing gear before advancing towards the glacier. The ascent continues, navigating the formidable Great Wall of Cholatse, ultimately leading to the high camp. The panoramic view from this elevated camp is truly breathtaking.

Cholatse- high camp

THE SUMMIT (6440M)

Following the acclimatization rotation at Cholatse's high camp, team members prepare for the summit push. During this critical phase, clients ascend once more to the high camp, where they spend the night in readiness for the midnight summit push. The ascent to the summit begins with a climb led by the rock section, situated just above the high camp. Following this challenging section, climbers navigate the Southwest Ridge of Cholatse, utilizing fixed ropes meticulously set up by our team prior to the clients' summit attempt. As climbers progress, the route encompasses an ice traverse and steep 45/50-degree angle ice climbing just below the summit. From the pinnacle, a breathtaking panorama unfolds, offering stunning views of iconic peaks such as Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, Taboche, Gokyo, and more. The summit push, with its technical challenges and awe-inspiring vistas, marks the culmination of the Cholatse ascent for our climbers.

INCLUDES

EXCLUDES

ROUTE MAP TO THE ISLAND PEAK

OUR GEAR LIST FOR 6000M

Preparing for a challenging expedition requires assembling a comprehensive array of essential gear, encompassing a durable backpack, weather-resistant tent, cozy sleeping bag with an insulated sleeping pad, and a reliable stove for cooking sustenance on the go; navigation tools like a map, compass, and GPS device ensure a safe journey, while a well-stocked first aid kit, emergency shelter, and multi-tool provide security in unforeseen circumstances; carefully chosen clothing layers, including waterproof rain jackets, trekking socks, and sturdy hiking boots, offer protection from the elements, complemented by trekking poles, a backpack rain cover, and dry bags for added resilience against inclement weather.

CLICK THE PICTURE FOR MORE INFORMATION

WHAT OUR CLIENTS SAYS ABOUT US

Mark Synnott
Mark Synnott
Jackson, New Hampshire, United States
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Top Notch!
We had a lot of choices when it came to selecting an outfitter for our National Geographic-sponsored 2019 expedition to the north side of Mount Everest, and after careful consideration we settled on using Expedition Himalaya. We based the decision in large part on several strong recommendations we received from friends who have worked with them in the past. And I am happy to report that EH did a fabulous job for us, and I can strongly recommend them to anyone looking to hire an outfitter for anything from a simple trek to a full blown Everest expedition. Thanks to the great work done by Navin, Dawa and all of our camp staff and climbing sheras, led by Lhakpa Tenje, our team was able to summit on May 30, 2019. (You can learn more about our trip through the two documentary films we produced - Lost on Everest [available on Disney+] and The Ghosts Above [available on Vimeo). As a testament to how strongly I believe in and trust Expedition Himalaya, I am planning to hire them again to lead a trek to Everest south side base camp for my family.
6thSymphony
6thSymphony
Colorado, USA
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Excellent Expedition Logistics
Expedition Himalaya is the company my regular US-based expedition operator has been working with for years. Over the last 10 years, Nabin and his team have also organized several mountaineering expeditions for me personally, including ones to Ganchenpo, Cholatse and Pumori. I have been happy with his and his team's work every time. I have found Expedition Himalaya to be professional and well-connected in the industry. They have excellent staff across the board, and can make things (like sending helicopters, arranging PCR tests or booking accommodation) happen quickly, efficiently and at a reasonable price. I highly recommend Expedition Himalaya as a reliable expedition outfitter and expedition logistics partner in Nepal, and look forward to working with them in the future.
ArneH89
ArneH89
Eindhoven, The Netherlands
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Great expedition without worries!
The company helped us a lot in the organisation of the trip and helped us with getting into Nepal during the Covid-19 periode. It was easy getting into contact and the information they gave was very useful. The trip itself was great! From pickup from the airport, hotel, flight to Lukla, expedition, flight back, help with PCR test and transfer back to the airport was arranged perfectly!
Scott C
Scott C
USA
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Expedition Himalaya excels across the board
Expedition Himalaya exceeds all expectations. Amazing people, superb logistical planning, and excellent quality. Expedition Himalaya excels at expediting resources when needed to make it happen. EH arranged helicopter’s and much more when extreme limited availability. Expedition Himalaya operates in a safe and effective manner. Climb team comes with many years of knowledge and experience. Younger team members are being mentored properly. Chefs and Cooks were top quality and shocking what they can make at high altitudes. I highly recommend Expedition Himalaya for your Nepal, China and more expeditions.
Fischer Hazen
Fischer Hazen
USA,Alaska
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Very professional and organized
I have nothing but good things to say about Expedition Himalaya. They are a professional and well-run organization. We worked with Expedition Himalaya for the 2021 Everest season. From the onset, they provided reliable and timely information with regards to entering the country and initiating our trek into basecamp. Once on the mountain, the basecamp was fantastic. Very organized, amazing food and very nice tents. Dawa, Nabin, Sarki and the rest of the crew were very receptive to any requests, they were always thinking ahead and they organized a very successful trip. I would 100% work with them the next time I go back to Nepal, be it for climbing or treking. They are the best of the best.
 @tolivetotravel
@tolivetotravelUSA,Alaska
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Everest expedition 2021
Apr 2021 I climbed Everest with Expedition Himalaya. Despite us not being able to make it to the top due to Covid, It's been an amazing experience, great Sherpas, very dedicated, friendly and professional, great chef and kitchen stuff, amazing food, and very well connected agent back in Kathmandu that helped us a lot with the tough times during Covid lockdown. This certainly has been an experience of a lifetime.
 Elsie Bezuidenhout
Elsie Bezuidenhout
Centurion, South Africa
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Everest 2021 expedition
Apr 2021 The services of Expedition Himalaya is exceptional. They are professional, extremely efficient, give attention to detail and go out of their way to ensure every aspect of your expedition is covered. No task is too big or too small for Nabin (managing everything in Kathmandu) and Dawa (managing everything in basecamp). The Sherpa team has an outstanding summit resume, they are very professional, highly technically skilled, super human strong, friendly, patient and treat everyone with the utmost respect. Sarki, the basecamp cook, and his cook team, provides world class meals from their cook tent domain. I can highly recommend Nabin, Dawa and their amazing team!!
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REQUIREMENTS

PHYSICAL FITNESS

Peak fitness is essential. Train with hikes, carrying gear. Personal Sherpas are optional; porters handle group equipment. Individualized advice for mental and physical preparation is available.

HEALTH

Pre-expedition medical examination is recommended. Dental checks are crucial due to pressure changes at higher altitudes.

EXPERINCE

Prior high-altitude and mountaineering experience is required for eight-thousander expeditions. Training programs for newcomers are offered. For seven-and six-thousander expeditions, experience on four-thousander peaks is advisable.

PREPERATION FOR EVEREST

Months of physical and mental preparation are necessary. Exercise, diet, and rest are key. Free world-class training programs for Everest climbers are available, along with exclusive discounts.

TECHNICAL TRAINING

Months of training are required for fitness and technical climbing experience. Climbing lower peaks familiarizes climbers with equipment and terrain. Expedition training programs are offered in Europe and the US.

HIGH ALTITUDE EXPERIENCE

Climb lower peaks for altitude adaptation. Tailor-made programs prepare climbers for 8000er expeditions.

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